Different Realities

With Woody's Passage now concluded it would be reasonable for to visualize an attitude of, well, back now to reality. That, however, would not be accurate. For the past month (plus) I experienced a very intense reality and became totally absorbed in it. Political and economic news meant nothing to me. All emails other than personal ones from friends and family were deleted unread. Stock market gyrations did not matter to me. The BP oil spill, as unfortunate as it is, had no impact in my passage reality and was not in my thoughts. What mattered was wind, water currents, waves, boat mechanics, sail handling, fuel consumption, battery condition, sleep, sunrise, sunset, communications with family and friends, energy, containment and management of fear, steering, overcoming challenges, appreciating the blessings and joys of freedom, of good weather, of arrivals and departures, and the wonders and the power of the natural forces of our world.

My other reality, into which I now return, is a fortunate and happy place. The Passage was not intended as an escape, only a temporary change. I have tranquility. I am grateful for my family and friends and the blessings of fortunate circumstances. I carry into this reality the memories of the Passage, broader perspectives, and vastly expanded zones of comfort.

Following are some of the highlights of the Passage:

Scariest Times: Just before the first thunderstorm. And just before the second. And the third. Also, entering Newport harbor at 2 AM in pea soup fog.

Most Embarrassing: Running aground on the first day at Bay Point Reach

Biggest thrill: Catching a striper (striped bass) off the coast of New Jersey.

Most memorable moment: Following thunderstorms in the Gulf of Maine and 2 hours of sleep, waking to a crystal clear sky, a full moon, and a 10 knot breeze; I raised the sails and settled in to a two hour transcendental state that cannot adequately be described in words. The boat and I were at one with the sea and the air and the universe as I drifted in and out of consciousness in a state of total awareness of my surroundings and situation but also floating through the sky and time in gentle undulations. This was ultimately ended as the wind built to 20 kts and I had to put in a couple of reefs in the mainsail around 1 AM.

Worst weather: The third cell of thunderstorms in the Gulf of Maine packed winds in excess of 40 kts (I lost sight of the wind gauge as I slunk into the well of the cockpit). The sails were down, and the boat easily rode out the 30 minutes of screaming wind.

Biggest Frustrations: Wind below 10 kts on the nose in a sloppy sea. The boat basically comes to a halt in these conditions, and the motor is required.

Most serious breakdown: On the third day out from Beaufort the engine ceased to function due to a clog in the fuel line. I had to decide whether to press on to Bermuda or turn back to the USA. We had crossed most of the Gulf Stream and had just finished a 140 nm day with the help of the GS current. With good wind we couold reach Bermuda sailing in 4 days. But a high pressure area was settling over Bermuda, meaning the wind would likely be light and on the nose. We are dependent on the engine for electricity generation. We turned left and sailed to Southport, NC for engine repairs.

Most attractive towns: Southport, NC, at the mouth of the Cape Fear River about an hour's drive south of Wilmington, has to be the most friendly place in the world. The town is quaint with the harbor lined with Victorian era houses. Wonderful ambience. Reasonable real estate prices. Non-touristy. Lunenburg, Nova Scotia: Historic town similar in character to Southport but more touristy, with a New England flavor. JD loved this town so much he decided to rent a room by the week and to hang around for a while. Everyone knows everyone. Down to earth and laid back. Great people. Chester, Nova Scotia: The yachting center of the south shore of NS. Developed mainly by families from Boston and Philadelphia. Walkable end to end. Sailing races twice a week at the yacht club which costs $400 per year to belong. Seasonal, from mid-June to mid-October. The people of Lunenburg, more a year-'round town, refer to Chester as "a drinking town with a yachting problem". But it has all the conveniences we are used to and would be our choice in NS as a place for a summer home. Beautiful setting, more pricey than other NS towns but much less than comparables in the USA. Wickford, RI: This is about 10 miles up Narragansett Bay from Newport and is where I left Jubilee on a mooring. This is a colonial town that has not changed much in 300 years. Many of the homes date to the 18th and 19th centuries. As I entered the area on Jubilee on a Tuesday evening about a dozen cat boats were there racing in their weekly summer series. Beautiful town, wonderful sailing venue.

Gratitude: I could not have done my Passage without the support of my extended family and friends. Bill Tumlin, my brother-in-law, was my weather router of great importance. I talked to him most days around 5 PM for a weather update. He also come to New England from Atlanta to sail with me on the last leg of the Passage. Tracy Tumlin Allardice helped create the blog site and did many of the updates. Bill and Kerstin Gilkerson were my generous hosts in Nova Scotia, helping in inumerable ways for the 5 days I spent there in theoir guest house at Martins River on Mahone Bay. Bill Hickman and Deb Linnell who had created time to sail with me but were cancelled by my change of plans. Deb helped me locate a mooring while I return South to get the trailer. Finally, my spouse, Alice, who worried about me constantly but patiently let me indulge my dream of making this Passage.

This ends the blog. We will be posting pictures and videos here and on www.WoodysPassage.com when we get them edited. Meanwhile, Jubilee is for sale, and I will post her specifics on www.Flicka20.com this week-end.

Woody
Atlanta
July 2, 2010